For the Spring-Summer 2025 collection, Imane Ayissi revisits the classics of Couture, incorporating a multitude of decorative effects, primarily achieved through traditional African craftsmanship.

An Observation

Ayissi notes that African clothing and Haute Couture share essential characteristics: both are tailor-made and crafted in an artisanal manner. These two worlds, although originating from different cul-tural contexts, emphasize the decoration and ornamentation of textiles. However, contemporary fash-ion—much like architecture or design—tends to minimize decoration, favoring structure, form, and architectural lines. Within this modern perspective, the cut of the garment is prioritized, and fabrics are often chosen for their structural integrity or texture, rather than for their patterns or decorative ap-peal.

A Creative Approach

This tension between traditional and modern design does not align with Ayissi’s vision. He values deco-rative fabrics, which tell stories through fashion, just as much as he admires the clean, structured forms of garments that emphasize volume and simplicity. With this creative philosophy, Ayissi ap-proached his Spring-Summer 2025 collection by blending the two worlds. He revisits Couture classics while incorporating a variety of decorative techniques inspired by African traditions. The collection features woven patterns such as Kenté from Ghana and Ntutuere from the Bamoun region of Came-roon, as well as tie-dye prints from Cameroon. Additionally, Ayissi’s designs showcase embroidery crafted in Senegal using traditional techniques, typically reserved for decorating ceremonial garments. The use of raffia from Madagascar is another standout element in the collection. But Ayissi goes even further: he delves into cutting techniques and volume exploration, challenging the dichotomy be-tween decoration and structure. In some pieces, the decorative elements are no longer just applied but become an integral part of the garment’s architecture.

An Exploration of Ecology

Ayissi also breaks new ground in his choice of materials by collaborating with İpeker, a pioneer in ve-gan textiles. İpeker, the world’s leading producer of « Vegan »-certified fabrics, developed a bamboo fiber fabric specifically for this collection. This fabric, created through a patented Vegan Textile Pro-cess (VTP), guarantees that no animal products are used at any stage—from raw material sourcing to finishing. This environmentally conscious approach reflects Ayissi’s commitment to combining ethics, innovation, and haute couture, proving that fashion can be both sustainable and artistically avant-garde.