华东大学 CTO 巴黎调研小组
In the 21st century, the rapid development of technology has helped society to progress, but it has also led to a degree of ecological imbalance. To strike a balance between technological development and the preservation of nature, it is essential to promote sustainable development.
Machines can perform complex and repetitive tasks more efficiently and quickly than humans, but they cannot completely replace human skills and expertise. Human hands are capable of creating, shaping and transforming the world around them in a unique way. They are essential in many fields such as crafts, art, construction and many others.
France is renowned for its expertise in technology, sustainable development and crafts. The group of CTO from Huangdong University travelled to Paris . As guest journalists for the magazine Airs de Paris, they had the opportunity to meet French companies and experts. These encounters enabled them to engage in an interdisciplinary and intercultural exploration…
法国以其在科技、可持续发展和手工艺方面的卓越发展而闻名于世。华东大学的 CTO 调研小组来到巴黎，做为Airs de Paris杂志的特邀记者，与法国有关公司和专家进行了专题座谈，对科技、生态、可持续发展、时尚，以及手工业等方面，进行跨学科和跨文化的探索。
Sothys , a responsible cosmetics brand
Sothys is a historic family business that embodies excellence. Its dynamism is based on its ability to remain true to itself while providing new solutions in the ever-changing world of beauty.
The CTO group met Stéphanie DUCHAXEL, the International Director of Sothys, and Florent Mas, the Director of Research and Development. Stéphanie and Florent explained Sothys’ know-how to them.
The Sothys concept is based on a responsible approach to beauty, respectful of the skin and the environment. The brand favours the use of recyclable materials and is committed to using cardboard and paper from sustainably managed forests. Packaging is also lightened.
Sothys devotes 1% of its turnover to preserving nature through the Jardins Sothys and the sustainable management of its 4 hectares of preserved forest within a 26 hectare park. Created in 2007, the Jardins Sothys serve as a source of inspiration and creation for Sothys cosmetics.
Research and development are at the heart of Sothys’ priorities. The SOREDEC laboratory, made up of a team of 25 biochemists, pharmacists and beauticians, plays an essential role in the brand’s scientific innovation. Every year, Sothys offers an average of 35 new skincare formulas and 15 new make-up products. Each Sothys formula combines the inspiration of nature with the rigour of science.
CTO 研究小组与思蒂国际总监 Stéphanie DUCHAXEL 和研发总监 Florent Mas进行了交流。Stéphanie和Florent向他们介绍了思蒂的专有技术和理念。
思蒂的理念基于一种更负责任的美容方式，尊重皮肤和生态环境。产品的包装不仅尽量使用可回收材料，和来自可持续管理森林的原料，同时也尽可能采用轻质材料。思蒂将营业额的1%用于思蒂花园的的创建来达到保护自然的目的，对思蒂26 公顷公园内的 4 公顷森林进行可持续管理，思蒂花园是思蒂化妆品的灵感和创作源泉。
研发是思蒂公司的重点工作。由 25 名生物化学家、药剂师和美容师组成的 SOREDEC 实验室在品牌的科学创新中发挥着至关重要的作用。思蒂每年平均推出 35 种新的护肤配方和 15 种新的彩妆产品。思蒂的每种配方都将大自然的灵感与严谨的科学相结合。
Bernardaud: Innovation and know-how
For 160 years, Bernardaud has been identified with Limoges porcelain and has become a world-renowned player in the decorative arts and French luxury goods. Jing HUANG, Communications Coordinator for China at Bernardaud, invited the group on a journey to discover the manufactory’s creations.
The company works with top chefs from all over the world to reinvent porcelain for the culinary arts. Bernardaud also showcases the work of contemporary artists through exhibitions organised by the Bernardaud Foundation. The Bernardaud collections bear witness to the ability of this refined material to constantly reinvent itself with modernity and boldness.
Designers and artists are inspired by Bernardaud porcelain, which leads them into unexplored territory. Each service, jewel, piece of furniture, lighting fixture or object signed Bernardaud brings a touch of simple luxury to everyday life and demonstrates that, even after two thousand years, porcelain remains an exception.
Bernardaud perpetuates and diversifies its know-how, taking care to safeguard French heritage while reinventing porcelain. The factory combines craftsmanship, industry and art in its activity.
In a field where marketing strategy is often predominant, Bernardaud remains true to its philosophy by following the zeitgeist, trusting its intuitions, asserting its choices and asserting its favourites. For Bernardaud, true audacity means being yourself.
Urban planning and sustainable development
The former Renault factory in Boulogne-Billancourt has been successfully transformed into an exemplary eco-district called Trapèze. This urban project highlights the way in which an industrial site can be renewed by placing people at the heart of the project, thanks to high-quality contemporary architecture by famous names such as Jean Nouvel and Norman Foster.
The CTO group was welcomed by Natalia Prikhodko and Rubino Valentina, cultural project managers, who guided them on a tour of the site. This visit enabled them to discover the quality of the district’s development. They were able to appreciate this exemplary urban project for the sustainable renewal of an industrial site.
By favouring a block-by-block approach rather than isolated buildings, the Trapèze has succeeded in creating high-quality living spaces that encourage a social mix, exchanges and social ties.
Thanks to its environmental ambitions, illustrated by a successful balance between housing, offices, shops and green spaces, and its recognition by the EcoQuartier label, Trapèze demonstrates that it is possible to reconcile economic development, social progress and the preservation of nature in a sustainable development perspective. It is an outstanding example of urban development that meets the challenges of the 21st century.
位于布洛涅-比扬古的前雷诺工厂已成功转型为一个被命名为特拉佩兹(Le Trapèze )的生态区典范。这个城区创建项目突出了以人为本的理念，通过让-努维尔（Jean Nouvel）和诺曼-福斯特（Norman Foster）等著名建筑师设计的高品质当代建筑，对废弃工业遗址进行了改造。
生态城园文化项目经理 Natalia Prikhodko 和 Rubino Valentina 接待了华东 CTO调研小组，并带领他们参观了城区的花园。这次参观使大家得以了解该生态区的发展质量，以及这个工业区可持续改造的城市项目。
特拉佩兹(Le Trapèze )的设计是采用街区多元化构建，而非单个建筑的方式，成功地创造了人性化的优质生活空间，促进了社会不同层次的多样性并存、相互交流和社区联系。同时旁边的勒特拉佩兹毗邻塞甘岛的文化活动为这个新区注入活力。
因为生态城区建设成功地实现了住房、办公楼、商店和绿地之间的平衡，从而获得了法国生态区（Eco Quartier）标签的认可。这个城区的建设从可持续发展的角度来展示，经济发展、社会进步和自然保护是可以兼顾的，所以这个特拉佩兹(Le Trapèze )生态区是迎接 21 世纪挑战的城市发展的杰出典范。
Galerie 19M : A dialogue
The name “19M” refers to the day Gabrielle Chanel was born and to one of the magic numbers of the House of CHANEL. The “M” stands for Métiers d’art, Fashion and the Hand, in homage to craftsmen and their skills. The 19M building was designed by internationally renowned architect Rudy Ricciotti.
The 19M is a place tailor-made for the 600 craftsmen and employees who work here every day. Its garden, designed as an ecological niche in the middle of the urban environment, is home to beehives, perches and a variety of trees and plants. The CTO group went to 19M in Paris and visited the Galerie 19M. This gallery showcases the art of fashion and decoration and has become an essential cultural venue.
The current exhibition at Galerie du 19M is entitled “Carla Fernández. The handmade future”. This exhibition offers an immersion into the world of stylist and designer Carla Fernández, highlighting her collaborations with Mexican artisans and celebrating the traditional arts and crafts of Mexico. Carla Fernández works at the forefront of ethical fashion by preserving the rich textile heritage of Mexico’s indigenous communities. Her designs are the result of collaboration with over 180 weavers, embroiderers and sculptors from fifteen Mexican states, who use traditional techniques and processes to create contemporary fashion.
19M 这个名字中的19是指香奈儿的出生日期，也是香奈儿集团的一个神奇数字。M 代表艺术大师（Métiers d’art）、时尚和手工，向手工艺人及其技艺致敬。
19M的建筑由国际知名建筑师鲁迪-里乔蒂（Rudy Ricciotti）设计。 19M是为每天在这里工作的香奈儿集团 600 名手工艺匠量身打造的地方。花园被设计成城市中的一个生态小区，里面有蜂箱、栖息地以及各种树木和植物。
华东 CTO调研小组来到香奈儿集团的 19M 手工艺基地，参观了 19M 艺术廊。这个艺术廊常常举办以时尚和装饰艺术为主题的展览，已成为巴黎一个重要的文化场所。
19M 艺廊正在举办的展览名为 “卡拉-费尔南德斯 :手工制造的未来”。这次展览让人们沉浸在造型师和设计师卡拉-费尔南德斯的世界中，突出展示了她与墨西哥工匠的合作，以及对墨西哥传统艺术和手工艺的赞美。
卡拉-费尔南德斯通过保护墨西哥土著社区丰富的纺织遗产，走在道德时尚的前沿。她的设计是与来自墨西哥 15 个州的 180 多名纺织工、刺绣工和雕刻工合作的成果，这次展览同时与香奈儿的工作坊合作，利用传统技术和工艺创造当代独特的服饰。
Meeting: Craft x Enzo
During the visit, the group met up with Enzo and enjoyed a lively discussion. Enzo, a graduate of the renowned Esmod school, shared his career path. After working for Louis Vuitton, he decided to turn to craftsmanship and created his own brand, Alphega Malletier.
By exchanging their points of view, they quickly realised that there was a significant cultural difference in the way luxury is perceived in these two countries. In China, luxury is often associated with prestigious brands and internationally renowned products. In France, however, luxury is more closely linked to craftsmanship and the quality of traditional materials and skills.
This cultural difference has given rise to some interesting reflections on how the two countries approach and value luxury. The group also became aware of the importance of the craftsman’s profession in preserving traditions and craft techniques. Enzo shared his experience as a craftsman.
This discussion enabled the group to broaden their perspective on luxury and craftsmanship, with a better understanding of different cultural approaches. They came away from the meeting with a greater appreciation of the diversity of craft skills, as well as a reflection on how these skills can be preserved and enhanced in a globalised world.
座谈会：手工 x 恩佐
French version :
Airs de Paris in Kiosk
Numbers 07 2023
Numbers 05 2023
In the World