UJOH : Japanese youth in the 1990s

 

 

The Autumn-Winter 2025 collection from UJOH, designed by the duo Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki, delves into the memories of Japanese youth in the 90s, a time when high school students, under the weight of strict rules, reinvented their clothing language.

Through masterful tailoring and layering, the brand deconstructs the rigid codes of school uniforms to reveal an unexpected creative freedom.

UJOH 2025秋冬系列由Aco与Mitsuru Nishizaki联手打造,深入探索了90年代日本青少年的记忆,那个在严格规则下重新定义自我着装风格的时代。通过精湛的剪裁和层次搭配技艺,品牌解构了刻板的校服规范,展现出意想不到的创意自由。

 

 

 

A stylistic Rebellion

 

In this reinvented wardrobe, silhouettes embrace the iconic stylistic subversions of the era. An oversized vest layered over an asymmetrical skirt evokes students defying imposed length restrictions, while fluid leg warmers recall loose socks, the baggy, slouchy socks that symbolized a generation seeking individuality.

This subtle yet assertive rebellion still resonates today, offering a contemporary perspective on these rigid dress codes.

在这个重新演绎的衣服中,廓形体现了那个时代标志性的风格颠覆。超大号的背心叠穿在不对称的裙子上,让人联想到学生们对长度限制的不屑一顾,而流畅的腿部保暖裤则让人想起宽松的袜子,这种松垮垮的袜子象征着追求个性的一代人。这种微妙而自信的反叛至今仍能引起共鸣,为这些刻板的着装规范提供了一个现代视角。

 

 

The materials chosen for this collection tell a story of timeworn uniforms and the familiar textures of adolescence. Flannel-finished twill, sturdy and soft, reminiscent of well-worn school blazers.

Textured jacquard, with interlaced ribbons and hand-cut threads, evokes the relief of fur, blending softness and structure. Wool gabardine, tightly woven and treated with a waxy finish, reveals a dense yet smooth touch, highlighting the silhouettes’ structure. Innovative quilted fabric, infused with recycled polyamide yarn, reinterprets the cozy comfort of students’ winter coats.

本系列选用的材料讲述了一个关于破旧校服和青春期熟悉质感的故事。法兰绒面料的斜纹布,坚固而柔软,让人联想起破旧的校服。纹理提花,交错的丝带和手工剪线,让人联想到皮草的浮雕,将柔软和结构融为一体。羊毛嘎巴丁面料经过紧密编织和蜡质处理,呈现出致密而光滑的触感,突出了轮廓的结构感。创新的绗缝面料注入了回收的聚酰胺纱线,重新演绎了学生冬衣的舒适惬意。

 

 

 

Nostalgia Meets Modernity

 

The collection plays with proportions and details, revisiting the codes of the uniform with a contemporary twist. Oversized knits, as if the uniform had been chosen several sizes larger, defy the austerity of regulation cuts. Modular bibs, which can be tied or left to float, symbolise an ever-evolving identity.

该系列在比例和细节上大做文章,以现代手法重新审视了制服的规范。超大号的针织衫,仿佛制服被选大了几个尺码,打破了常规剪裁的严谨性。模块化围兜可系可飘,象征着不断变化的身份。

 

 

Alpaca jumpers, inspired by rugby polo shirts, are combined with yak wool leggings, a nod to 90s silhouettes. Shirts with metamorphic details see their button placket transformed into a lavaliere or ribbons tied to the cuffs. A silver badge, embossed with the UJOH logo, makes its first appearance, like a reinvented school crest.

羊驼毛连衣裙的灵感来自橄榄球马球衫,与牦牛毛紧身裤相结合,向 90 年代的轮廓线条致敬。带有变形细节的衬衫,纽扣门襟变成了拉伐利埃,印有 UJOH 徽标的银色徽章首次亮相,宛如重新设计的校徽。

 

 

The colour palette draws on deep, timeless hues. Colours such as dark chocolate, taupe, bottle green and navy blue create an elegant, classic base. These shades are enhanced by vibrant accents such as vibrant lime, sky blue and delicate beige. These contrasts not only bring relief but also modernity to the traditional sobriety of the uniform.

色调采用了深沉、永恒的色调–深巧克力色、灰褐色、酒瓶绿和海军蓝,并点缀了鲜艳的青柠、天蓝色和精致的米色。这些鲜明的对比为传统的校服带来了现代气息。

 

 

With this collection, UJOH doesn’t just revisit the past; it reinterprets it to extract a resolutely modern essence. Blending nostalgia with innovation, Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki offer a poignant tribute to a Japanese youth that, despite the constraints, has managed to reinvent its identity through clothing. A collection that goes beyond trends to celebrate freedom and creativity.

在这个系列中,UJOH 不仅重温了过去,还对其进行了重新诠释,萃取出坚定的现代精髓。Aco 和 Mitsuru Nishizaki 将怀旧与创新融为一体,向日本青年致以崇高敬意。这一系列超越潮流,颂扬自由和创造力。

 

Ujon 15

 

 

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