AIRS DE PARIS

Creativity and Culture

Imane Ayissi x Jean-marc Chauve

 

时 尚 是 一 种 语 言

 

On 27 January 2022, at the end of Imane Aissi’s fashion show, the Executive President of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, Pascal Morand, awarded Imane, the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres.

Behind the fashion show, it is a duo that puts their synergies together. Imane and Jean Marc, two personalities and their visions of fashion complement each other well in fact this incredible evolution of the brand Imane Ayissi! Here are the two designers talking about their vision on fashion.

 

2022年1月27日的巴黎时装秀是伊曼生涯中重要的时刻,法国高级时装与时尚联盟执行主席帕斯卡尔.莫兰将法国文化部最重要的艺术与文学骑士勋章颁发给了伊曼,这是每位法国设计师的梦想。

在耀眼夺目时装秀的幕后,事实上是一个努力奋斗的协同二人组。伊曼和让.马克两个人的个性和他们对时尚的愿景相辅相成,创造伊曼.阿伊西品牌令人难以置信的演变! 在这里,两个才华横溢的设计师们向我们解析他们对时尚的看法。

 

Imane Ayissi

 

Synergies en commun - 2

 

Imane has been a model, a boxer, a dancer and now he is a fashion designer… In fashion, he has explored the body and the soul. And from his last career, he has created many wonders

 

How do you look back on the different jobs in your professional life ?

 

I have been a dancer, a model and a fashion designer. I liked all these jobs and in a certain way, I see a certain continuity between these professions, they all have the body as their base. Obviously the professions of model and dancer are limited in time and from a certain age, it is more difficult to continue to exercise them. As a stylist you can, in the best of case, you could work until your death, if you look at Chanel or Karl Lagerfeld for example.

 

What do you think about being a stylist ?

 

I have been a dancer, a model and a fashion designer. I liked all these jobs and in a certain way, I see a certain continuity between these professions, they all have the body as their base. Obviously the professions of model and dancer are limited in time and from a certain age, it is more difficult to continue to exercise them. As a stylist you can, in the best of case, you could work until your death, if you look at Chanel or Karl Lagerfeld for example.

 

Could you define your style ?

 

I am perhaps not the best person to define my style but I would say that I have a Parisian look, contemporary, with strong African inspirations.

 

What is the meaning of fashion for you ?

 

I don’t know what the future will hold, but I would like to change the current relationship with clothing, which is characterised by the over-consumption of poor quality clothes, manufactured to the detriment of the environment and the lives of those who make them. I would like fashion to produce less but better, to produce clothes that are made in good conditions and that can be enjoyed again and kept for a long time.

 

Why did you accept the cooperation with airs de paris for the bamboo fibre ?

 

I was very sensitive to the ecological ambition of this project and it is another way for me to dialogue with other cultures and other countries. In this case China has a very great and interesting textile culture. The fabric made from the Ecobamboo fiber is an interesting material, soft and supple, which makes it possible to make jerseys that are very well suited to draped silhouettes.

 

伊曼曾是一名模特,一名拳击手,一名舞蹈家,现在是一名时装设计师。他探索身体和灵魂,在职业生涯中,他创造了许多奇迹。

 

您如何回顾您的职业生活中的不同工作?

 

我曾是一名舞蹈演员,一名模特和一名时装设计师。我喜欢所有这些工作,在某种程度上,我看到这些工作之间有某种连续性,它们都以身体为基础。显然,模W特和舞者的工作在时间上是有限的,从某个年龄段开始,继续这些工作是比较困难的,而作为一个设计师,在最好的情况下,你可以一直工作到死,如果你看看香奈儿或卡尔-拉格菲尔德的例子。

 

您对成为一名设计师有何看法?

 

目前,这既是一份困难的工作,因为时尚界的竞争已经变得非常激烈,更多的是市场和营销的需要,而不是由创造力驱动,但我真的很喜欢它,因为时尚是一种语言,可以与每个人沟通,因此可以讲述故事,并进行文化交流。

 

您能定义您的风格吗?

 

我也许不是定义我的风格的最佳人选,但我 会说我有巴黎的精神,现代的,同时有强烈的非洲味道。

 

对您来说,时尚的意义是什么?

 

我不知道未来会怎样,但我想改变目前消费与服装的关系,过度消费和制造质量差的衣服损害了环境。我希望时尚界生产的衣服少而精,可以享用并保存很长时间。

 

您为什么会接受与巴黎灵感杂志的竹纤维联名合作?

 

我对这个项目的生态目标非常敏感,它是我与其他文化和其他国家对话的另一种方式,中国有一个非常伟大和丰富有趣的纺织文化。竹纤维是一种有趣的材料,柔软而有弹性,这使得制作非常垂坠的服装成为可能。

 

 

Jean-marc Chauve

 

Synergies en commun - 3

 

Jean-Marc Chauve worked for Nelly Rodis design office and collaborated with Maison Martin Margiela. He then created the ready-to-wear brand Sept. He collaborates with fashion brands and designers and is a regular teacher at the Institut Français de la Mode on fashion culture and product development. He is the director of the designer brand Imane Ayissi.

 

You are a stylist and also a trainer, how do you combine these two jobs?

 

For me it is quite natural to do these two jobs, training is a bit of an extension of my activities as a stylist. It allows me to pass on my experience and thoughts that come up when I work on the collections.

 

Is fashion too polluting?

 

Unfortunately the impact of fashion on environment has become major. Overproduction is the main reason, but also the choice of raw materials today. For example, synthetic materials, especially polyester, represent more than 75% of the fibers produced today. Although they can be recycled once or twice, we don’t know how to deal with the end of life of polyester products, and we end up with tons of non-biodegradable fibers in the ocean or on the ground, where they completely disrupt the ecosystems and endanger biodiversity and life itself.

 

What do you think about fashion in the future?

 

I see a movement of awareness on the part of brands and consumers to consume fashion better and minimise its impact on the environment, unfortunately still insufficient in the face of the power of fast- fashion brands. But I think that at some point we will have no choice but to make fashion products much more ecological if we don’t want to endanger humanity.

 

As a partner of imane, how do you help imane to develop?

 

I help him in the operational part for sourcing and manufacturing, to make his ideas become real clothes. But it’s also a dialogue between us and sometimes my role is also to force him to explore his own inspirations and ideas further.

 

What do you think of bamboo fibre?

 

I think it’s a very interesting alternative, when produced in good conditions has a very low impact on the environment, bamboo being a plant that grows very quickly without fertiliser, without pesticide with a very low impact on its environment. And this fibre can be used to make all sorts of different fabrics, from knitwear to warp and weft.

 

You are familiar with fashion in china, what do you think about made in china?

 

Of course, in China, as in all countries, there are different practices for the production of clothes, but today we find in China very high quality manufacturing, comparable to what is done in Italy or France, two reference countries for luxury production.

 

让·马克毕业于里昂大学,时尚和创作现象研究专业硕士。他曾在Nelly Rodi设计室里工作,也曾与Maison Martin Margiela合作。随后创立了原创品牌Sept。目前他是创造伊曼.阿伊西品牌的总经理。

 

您是一个设计师,同时也是一个培训师,你是如何将这两项工作结合起来的?

 

对我来说,做这两项工作是很自然的,培训是我作为设计师活动的一种延伸。它使我能够传递我的经验和我在从事设计工作时出现的想法。

 

时尚界的污染太严重了吗?

 

不幸的是,时尚对环境的影响已经变得很严重。生产过剩是主要原因,但也有使用的材料的选择。例如,合成材料,特别是聚酯,占今天生产的纤维的75%以上。虽然它们可以被回收一次或两次,但我们不知道如何处理聚酯产品的问题,最终我们在海洋或地面上发现了成吨的这些不可降解的纤维,它们完全破坏了生态系统,危及生物多样性和生命本身。

 

您对未来的时尚有什么看法?

 

我看到了品牌和消费者对更好地消费时尚并将其对环境的影响降到最低的意识运动,遗憾的是,在快速时尚品牌的力量面前,这种意识仍然不足。但我认为,在某些时候,如果我们不想危及人类,我们将别无选择,只能使时尚产品更加生态化。

 

作为伊曼的合作伙伴,您如何帮助伊曼发展?

 

我在采购和制造的方面帮助他,使他的想法成为真正的衣服。但这也是我们之间的理解和对话,我的作用也是帮助他进一步探索他自己的灵感和想法。

 

 

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