Imane Ayissi : Beauty x Eco-responsibility

 

对美的追求

 

For his Autumn Winter 2023 – 2024 collection, Imane Ayissi is in pure search of lines, shapes, volumes, movements, colours and textures, without forgetting her ecological commitment.

 

A quest for beauty

 

The starting point for this collection was the discovery of works by the painter Paul Chmaroff in the Thierry Schneider collection. Despite his unfamiliarity with the painter, who comes from a Russian background, he was instantly able to appreciate the beauty of this painting.

 

在巴黎时装周2023-2024秋冬系列高订走秀中,伊曼-阿伊西专注于对线条、形状、体积、色彩和质地各方面纯粹的探索,同时不忘对生态责任的承诺。

这个系列的出发点是在Thierry Schneider的收藏中发现了画家Paul Chmaroff的作品。尽管伊曼对这位来自俄罗斯的画家并不熟悉,但他一眼就被画作的美感所触动。

 

 

His reflection is on the fact that the search for beauty transcends cultural differences and is, on the contrary, what binds all members of humanity together.

Everywhere in the world, the beginning of a graphic work is always a set of lines and curves, a line and a circle (Mguilguidigueu-Mteun in the Ewondo language of Cameroon). Every creator can recognise themselves in the work of another creator.

 

Echoing the work of Paul Chmaroff, this collection is above all a pure search for lines, shapes, volumes, movements, colours and textures.

The stitching is done by Marcello Costa’s team, one of the most creative in the world for fashion weeks.

 

 

他的想法很简单,对美的追求会超越文化的差异,正是这种纯粹的追求将全人类联系在一起。

在世界各地,图案创作的开端总是一组线条和曲线,喀麦隆埃文多语叫Mguilguidigueu-Mteun。

其实每个创作者都能从另一个创作者的作品中认出自己。

 

与保罗-克马洛夫(Paul Chmaroff)的作品相呼应,伊曼2023-2024秋冬系列则是对线条、形状……的纯粹探索。

走秀化妆由Marcello Costa的团队来负责,该团队是巴黎时装周最具创造力的团队之一。

 

Ecology and beauty

are being reconciled…

 

Sustainable fashion is now perceived as compatible with style and aesthetics, according to the IFM study.

Convinced that fashion can be a vector for eco-responsible change, Imane Ayissi uses natural materials that have a low impact on the environment.

A trailblazer, Imane Ayissi was the first designer to use Ecobamboo fibre during Paris Fashion Week.

Bamboo has been cultivated in China for over 7,000 years. ECOBAMBOO is a new green fibre produced by the Jilin Chemical Fibre Group from high quality bamboo, representing innovation in bamboo cultivation in the 21st century!

 

Imane Ayissi 7

 

生态与美

正在调和…

 

伊曼-阿伊西深信时尚可以成为生态责任变革的载体,他使用对环境影响较小的天然材料。

作为前卫者,伊曼是第一位在巴黎时装周上使用生态竹纤维ECOBAMBOO的设计师。

竹文化在中国已经存在了7000多年,ECOBAMBOO是吉林化纤集团以优质竹子为原料生产的新型绿色纤维,是中国竹文化21世纪的创新!

 

Imane Ayissi 9

 

For this collection, Imane has used the finest bamboo fibre fabrics. Production has obtained the dark green shirt label in the Hot Button CANOPY 2022 report, SA8000 standards and OEKO-Tex Standard 100, OEKO-STeP, with vegetable dyeing.

The international members of the Bamboo Union came to Paris to support this ecological commitment.

 

在这个系列中,伊曼-阿伊西使用了世界上最好的天竹纤维ECOBAMBOO面料。

天竹纤维所选择的竹子材料得到了FSC和ORGANIC国际标准的认证。天竹纤维ECOBAMBOO的生产在2022年已被全球环保最权威的CANOPY报告中被授予30个纽扣和Hot Button 的深绿色衬衫标签。天竹纤维ECOBAMBOO的生产重视清洁能源的使用,拥有LCA国际标签,获得了SA8000OEKO-Tex Standard100认证。

天竹联盟的国际团队来到巴黎走秀现场,支持伊曼-阿伊西强有力的生态承诺。

 

 

Exclusive meeting with

Imane Ayissi

独家专访

伊曼阿伊西

 

Imane Ayissi 6

 

Why did you dare to be the first designer to use this new type of raw material: Ecobamboo fibre?

 

I’m quite daring. If you always wait for others to do the first tests, sometimes you will also miss out on something.

In this project, I like being the first to take the plunge. This new material, bamboo, is excellent. So you have to work with it and manipulate it. You have to see what you can do to make the creations.

When you see the material itself, the falls and the colours too, it’s very beautiful and pleasant. Isn’t it interesting in terms of comfort?  It’s very soft to the touch. This drape speaks to me.

 

This material speaks to you?

 

Of course . When I look at fabrics, there are some that speak to me, like these bamboo crepes and satins.

I think the fabric is very nice and soft. The graves are quite incredible in terms of the material itself.

So I made shapes on the Stockman to see what can be done with it. I look at the volumes and shapes. I manipulate them a bit on the stockman and the sheets.

The inspiration? For example, this draped shape: there’s a Greek feel to it. But it’s also mostly African, the way African ladies drape themselves in fabrics. There’s a graphic side to it. I think it’s very elegant.

 

How important is sustainable fashion to you?

 

The whole world is interested in sustainable fashion. It’s becoming like a duty. For me, it is important to apply myself to this exercise to be able to commit myself in my own way and to make models with fabrics like bamboo that pollute much less. I think this is important for today’s world.

 

Creativity is a language of peace?

 

As a fashion designer, we send messages with our creations, including the dresses which carry messages.

I made the verses with the dresses to send the messages. Everything is written in the shapes, volumes and colours. It’s like when a painter paints a picture, you have to be able to read it with your eyes.

When you look at certain dresses, you can understand the designer’s vision. You can read the details of certain messages that are written «in» the dress. Or even the way the dress is described. There are things you can perceive. It’s important for me, fashion designers have a role to play for peace.

 

Are you interested in China?

 

I’m originally from Cameroon. But today, we have all become citizens of the world.  China is very involved in Africa. In Cameroon, there are many Chinese. So it’s important that I take an interest in China. I have worked with Chinese people and some Chinese stars.

The world is linked. We must not forget that we are linked. There is history, travel, language and also words, a lot of things that link us. It is important that we take an interest in others today.

We are called to function together. I am interested in this Chinese culture which I find very rich.

 

Imane Ayissi 8

 

您为什么勇于成为第一个使用新型原材料竹纤维Ecobamboo的设计师?

 

我应当是相当大胆的,如果你总是等待别人去做第一个,有时你也会错过一些机会。

在这个项目中,我喜欢做第一个敢于尝试的先锋。这种新型原材料是非常棒的。你必须去和它一起工作,触摸它,你必须看看能用它做些什么,来进行创作。

你需要看到材料本身,坠感和颜色,这是非常美丽和愉快的体验。 而舒适度,也很有趣。它的触感是非常的柔软。我对这个竹纤维材料有感觉。

 

您的意思是您能与竹纤维面料沟通?

 

当然是这样。当我看面料时,有一些面料能让我心动,比如这些竹纤维制的绉绸和缎子。我感觉这种面料非常优雅和柔软。就材料本身而言,是相当不可思议的。

所以我在模架上先做出些形状,看看可以用它做什么。我先比较一下体积和形状,在模架进行了尝试,寻找下灵感。

例如这种悬垂的造型来自非洲,但里面有一点希腊的元素,但主要是非洲的风格。非洲女性知道如何垂挂面料来,这种结构造型,我认为是非常优雅的。

 

可持续时尚对您来说非常重要?

 

现在整个世界都对可持续时尚感兴趣,因为这正在变得像一种责任。对我来说,重要的是把这个理念运用到工作中,能够以自己的方式承诺可持续,例如用竹子这种污染更少的面料制作服饰。我认为这对今天的世界很重要。

 

今天创意是一种和平的语言吗?

 

作为一个时装设计师,我们用我们的创作来传递信息,裙子是携带信息的。

我用裙子来做诗,来传递信息。一切都写在形状、体积和颜色中。这就像画家画画时,你必须能够用你的眼睛来理解。

有一些衣服,当你看着它们的时候,你仿佛可以理解某些事情。你可以读懂写在衣服上的某些信息的细节,或者甚至是裙子的描述方式,有一些东西是可以感知的。时装设计师可以为和平发挥作用,这对我来说很重要。

 

您对中国感兴趣吗?

 

我有喀麦隆南非血统,但今天我们都已成为世界公民。中国在非洲各方面有很多的参与,在喀麦隆有很多中国人。因此我对中国是非常感兴趣的,我也与一些中国明星合作。

世界是相互联系在一起的。我们绝不能忘记我们其实是有联系的。历史 、旅行、语言 、还有文字,很多东西都能把我们联系起来。今天我们需要对他人感兴趣,我们需要共同发挥作用。是的,我对中国文化感兴趣,它非常的丰富。

 

 

Backstage : Imane Ayissi

 

 

Chinese version:

https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/2p_MfZNHNYZ98lOMd9SXLw

 

 

 

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