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Creativity and Culture

Alexis Mabille, the joy of living

 

生活乐趣的来源

 

Alexis Mabille is a talented designer. Passionate about fashion, for him it’s the joy of living and above all, brings the greatest confidence in him!

Since 2010, this designer is a permanent member of the French Haute Couture. Alexis is one of the most famous designer of in this magical world…

 

Alexis Mabille,

the   joy   of   living

 

Delicate, feminine, and romantic, his collections are a permanent invitation to the magic of day and night. The bow tie remains his favourite emblem. From the most impressive to the most detailled, his creativity is astonishing.

His workshop is a cocoon nestled in the heart of the Vivienne Galerie and it is there that his heart beats. Alexis Mabille tells Airs de Paris his deepest secrets.

 

Alexis Mabille, où la joie de vivre -2 - 850 x564

What does «Fashion» mean to you?

 

For me, it is the expression of a passion! I have always been determined to work in this sector. The textile inspired me. Fashion has such a close «mirror» relationship with the human being. You understand this as soon as you work with the craftsmen. Fashion and their skills have blend into one.  Enhancing and embellishing the human body is a constant challenge for me. I like to use volumes to make it «beautiful and comfortable»; I like to transform volumes, or paradoxically «stick to the skin». Thanks to my eyes and my hand, women dream of becoming sublime!

 

What do you think of the profession of stylist today?

 

When I was a child, I was already doing couture! I belonged to a family where my mother only sewed for pleasure. So, I started sewing, working with all fabrics. I used to go to a small decoration shop nearby and pick up samples… then I had fun.  Like that, I started to make accessories for my friends, for dolls, for my teddy bear… This new world, very imaginary, full of poetry was in my head. I was always creating more and more, and I was surprised. As I loved to draw, I had the feeling that everything happened naturally. Until I realised that I would have to study.

I spoke to Christian Lacroix about it and exchanged letters with him. In a way we shared the same passion. I had the greatest admiration for him… One day, he said to me: «You must join the Chambre syndicale…». I listened to him, and I took a course at the Chambre syndicale. Then I worked for Manuel Garo , Nina Ricci and Dior… I had the most amazing experiences that every young couturier could wish for. Then I managed to set up my own clothing brand. It was unisex at first, then haute couture. What a journey!

 

Are there many difficulties in this profession of designer?

 

They are many but they are, in fact, «challenges», stages to pass… my «plus» is to be a relentless creative! All I must do is pick up a pencil and draw. My artistic ideas line up. What luck! But that’s never all, you must go further each time. Between the drawing and the garment, you must know how to make it credible, how to make it real. The pattern makers then take over.

A designer must know how to find the right techniques, the right fabric, a perfect lace, a button, a fine embroidery… I must have in mind a volume that is feasible. Often in the fashion shows, the clothes are very volumetric which means a lot of technical work in the material.

Knowing how to give the chosen fabric its letter of nobility is a real challenge for all designers! The body remains the fundamental basis, and when draping it, it must be respected. To conclude:  the most chanllenging thing for us is to turn our ideas  in mind   into reality, to be faithful from the drawing to the body of a woman who will want to wear the garment.

 

Are there any difficult steps to take?

 

Some moments are difficult because you must work harder than you need to! The moment of the fashion shows is intense, no detail can be spared. I will never give up because these moments are strong and unforgettable. Each difficulty brings its own challenge. You always must start again!

 

What a wonderful joy of life in your work, we can feel it!

 

I don’t realise it so well. I always challenge myself and I like that. That’s my personality. I am «sunny», a «joyful» person, I like to give happiness to others. At the same time, I am obviously a very serious «loner». It seems to me that nowadays people are looking for freshness, beauty, fun. Fashion, especially couture, will always make people dream.

It will take us far into these imaginary worlds. Fashion will also be part of a feeling of well-being, of deep confidence. I like to present my collections in a setting that resembles me, a setting that corresponds to the needs of each and everyone. The colours, the movements, the richness of the materials, certain inlays, certain frivolities of transparency can be seen face to face… A bit like me all in all!

My job is a palpable moment, full of enchantment and surprises. My parades are a show full of emotion and pleasure. Whether the moment is serious or joyful, the creation remains full of emotions and memories of its own. My models know it: their outfits are matched to the hundredth of a millimetre. Pleasure and elegance are the order of the day!

 

Is the bow tie still your signature?

 

It’s true that in my first collections, I worked on the bow tie. It is an integral part of my universe. The rather mixed lines of my bow ties stood out. We tend to look at the bow tie as a masculine element… I knew how to make it feminine! In all my collections, they are represented in one way or another, whether it’s a dress, a jacket, a blouse….

In one of my latest collections, there is a large blue-night/chestnut coloured dress. It’s very light and breezy on the outside, but has intensely fluid structure on the inside which makes the dress looks like it rolls around the body. Its size is massive. It looks crazy! I love these mixtures of colours. It thrills me all the time. This dress is by far one of the most incredible works!

 

 

Alexis Mabille, où la joie de vivre -3 - 850 x521

 

亚历克西斯-马比尔是一位富有才华的法国设师,他对时尚充满热情,喜欢探索生活的乐趣,最重要的是他对自己充满信心。曾与各大奢侈品牌例如Dior合作,从2010年以来,这位独特的设计师就已经是法国高级定制时装周官方的正式成员。

精致、妩媚和浪漫,他的系列是对白天和夜晚的魔力的永久邀请。蝴蝶结仍然是他最喜欢的设计元素,从最令人印象深刻的造型,到最细微的变化,他的创意令人惊讶。亚历克西斯是巴黎时尚这个神奇世界中最著名的人之一。

他的工作室隐藏在巴黎有名的薇薇安长廊的中心,这里跳动着他的创造激情,亚历克西斯-马比尔告诉我们内心里最深的秘密。

 

“时尚 “对你意味着什么?

 

对我来说,它是一种热爱的激情的表达!我一直渴望在这个行业工作,材质和面料总是让我充满灵感。时尚与人类有着如此密切的 “镜像相联 “的关系。只要你和工匠们一起工作,你就会明白这一点。时尚完全与他们的技能融为一体。加强和美化人体是不断的挑战。我喜欢用空间来使人体感觉 “美丽和舒适”;我喜欢改造宽松的体积,或矛盾地使衣服紧紧地 “粘在皮肤上”。感谢我的眼睛和我的手,让女人成为神圣的女神!

 

你对设计师这个职业有何看法?

 

当我还是个孩子的时候,我已经在做高级时装了!我属于这样一个家庭,我的母亲只为快乐而缝纫。所以我开始学习缝制,我经常去附近的一家小装饰店收集一些人们不再需要的样品, 然后我就用它们来自我创新,我就这样开始为我的朋友们制作配件,做布娃娃,为我的泰迪熊制作饰品……在这个世界,有着无穷的想象,充满了诗意。我总是在创造越来越多的东西,连我都很惊讶。而且我喜欢画画,潜意识里我有一种感觉,一切都会自然而然地发生。直到我有一天意识到,我必须进一步学习。

我与克里斯蒂安-拉克鲁瓦谈起此事,并与他交换了想法。在某种程度上,我们有着同样的激情。他对我说:”你必须进入工会学校! ” 我对他非常敬佩。我听从了他的意见,并参加了一个培训课程。后来我到曼努埃尔-加罗和尼娜-里奇工作,我在迪奥大约工作了十年……我得到了最好的工作经验,这是每个年轻的服装设计师所渴望的。然后我建立了自己的服装品牌。起初是男女都可以穿的中性服饰,然后是高级时装。这是一个多么美好的职业旅行啊!

 

设计师这个职业有很多困难吗?

 

是的,但困难实际上是 “挑战”,是必须要经过的阶段……我的 “优点”是,我是一个不屈不挠的创造者。我所要做的就是拿起铅笔画画,所有的灵感就降临了,多么幸运! 但这绝不是全部,因为我们必须每次都走得更远。在绘画和服装之间,你必须知道如何使它成为真实。绘图之后接下来需要样本制作来实现。

一个设计师必须知道如何找到正确的技巧、合适的面料、完美的花边、纽扣、精美的刺绣……必须在心中有一个可行的计划。通常在时装周,当衣服的体积非常宽大,这意味着在材料上要做很多技术工作。知道如何赋予所选择的织物以高贵的风格,是对所有设计师的一个真正的挑战! 当然身体仍然是所有的基础,必须尊重它。总而言之,设计师最大的困难是把心中的想法变成现实。要尊敬于一个女人的身体,让她渴想穿上这件衣服。

 

是否有时必须采取超越困难的步骤?

有些时刻是困难的,因为你必须更努力工作! 时装秀是紧张的,任何细节都不能放过。我永远不会放弃,因为这些时刻是强有力的,令人难忘的。每个难度都会带来自己的挑战,因为你总是要重新开始!

 

您的作品中蕴含着多么美妙的生活情趣!

 

我并没有意识到这一点,我总是挑战自己,我喜欢这样。这就是我的个性。我是一个阳光、快乐的人,我喜欢给别人带来快乐。同时,我也是一个非常严肃的«孤独者»。在我看来,现在的人都在寻找新鲜感、美感、乐趣。时尚,尤其是高级时装,总是会让人产生梦想。它将把我们远远带入这些想象的世界。时尚应当能够带给我们幸福感,深深的自信。我喜欢在一个与我相似的环境中展示我的系列,一个与每个人的需求相适应的环境。例如色彩、动作、材料的丰富性、某些镶嵌物、某些轻盈的透明度都可以看到。这些混合是幸福的联系,它们可以是明智的,也可以是调皮的东西……总之有点像我! 我的工作象是一个聚会,一个可触摸的时刻,充满了魅力和惊喜。我的走秀是一场充满情感和愉悦的表演。无论此刻是严肃的还是欢乐的,创作仍然充满了自己的情感和回忆。我的模特们知道:她们的服装搭配到了百分之一毫米的精确和完美。愉悦和优雅是当下的主旋律!

 

蝴蝶结是你的设计基因吗?

 

的确在我的第一个系列中,领结是主要设计元素。它是我的创意中不可或缺的一部分。我的领结的线条相当混和,很突出。我们倾向于将领结视为一种男性元素……我知道如何让它变得更有女人味!在我所有的系列中,它们都以这样或那样的方式表现出来,无论是一条裙子、一件夹克、一件衬衫….在我最近的一个系列中,有一件蓝夜栗子色的大礼服。外观轻盈,矛盾的是,它有这种令人难以置信的体积,但其内部结构是流动的,它在身体周围滚动。一个大蝴蝶结垂在身上,既柔软又疯狂! 我喜欢这些颜色的混合。它们是如何让我激动的。这条裙子是迄今为止最不可思议的之一!

 

 

 

 

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