Bamboo fibre is the fibre of the future?
The global eco-fibres market is growing significantly, with a forecast compound annual growth rate of over 9% between 2023 and 2028, according to a report by Mordor Intelligence.
Bamboo fibre is increasingly recognised as a fibre of the future in the textile industry. Its properties include softness, breathability, moisture wicking, biodegradability and natural antibacterial qualities. These properties make it an attractive option for more eco-responsible fashion.
However, the cultivation and processing of bamboo fibre has raised concerns and controversy about its impact on the environment.
An exclusive interview with Ariane Bigot, Deputy Fashion Director of Première Vision, provides a better understanding of bamboo fibre and its sustainable production.
根据Mordor Intelligence的报告，全球生态纤维市场正在大幅增长，预计2023年至 2028 年的年增长率将超过9%。
Première Vision 时尚部副总监 Ariane Bigot 的独家专访，邦助我们对竹纤维及其可持续生产有了更深入的了解。
Could you explain this new material, bamboo fibre?
The fibre derived from the raw material bamboo is not, strictly speaking, a natural bamboo fibre. It is extremely rare to find natural bamboo fibre, and it is used very little in the clothing industry. What is widely used in this industry is an artificial fibre produced from the cellulose extracted from bamboo. It is in fact a completely different fibre from a natural fibre.
Does bamboo fibre pollute or not?
It is important to note that the environmental impact of bamboo fiber in the textile industry depends on the production model, the cultivation of the raw material (bamboo), and the processes used to transform the cellulose pulp into artificial fiber. Therefore, it is not possible to make a blanket statement about whether bamboo fiber is a perfect solution or a bad one.
Man-made fibers have certain advantages over synthetic fibers, particularly when it comes to the dispersion of micro-particles from products. Unlike synthetic fibers, which rely on fossil resources, man-made fibers are produced from renewable raw materials, such as cellulose extracted from wood or bamboo. Furthermore, if an artificial fiber is produced under the right conditions, it can be biodegradable and compatible with other natural cellulosic fibers, such as cotton, flax, and hemp. This potentially enables fiber blends to be recycled.
It is also worth pointing out that the diversity of fibre supplies is important in the search for sustainable solutions. Focusing solely on one type of fibre can exacerbate the negative consequences.
Which type of bamboo fibre is environmentally friendly?
To ensure that the bamboo fibre you choose is environmentally friendly, there are several factors to consider. First, it’s important to check the origin of the bamboo used as a raw material for fibre production. Look for bamboo that comes from sustainably managed plantations. This is crucial because bamboo is an invasive plant, and it’s essential to ensure that its production does not harm ecosystems, destroy forests, or have a negative impact on biodiversity.
To verify the sustainability of the bamboo fibre, you can look for labels such as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or Canopy. These labels guarantee that the cellulose used in the fibre production comes from sustainably managed plantations.
In addition to the traceability of the raw material and fibre production, it’s important to consider the overall approach to reducing environmental impact throughout the entire life cycle of the product. This includes factors such as water and energy consumption, reduction of chemical impact, and compliance with social and environmental standards. Considering the entire life cycle of the product, from production to the end of its life, is crucial in assessing its environmental friendliness.
The bamboo fibre produced by ilin Chemical Fiber Group and exhibited at Première Vision is certified. Is it a high-quality product?
The bamboo fibre produced by Jilin and exhibited at Première Vision is certified, which means it complies with social and environmental standards set by these certifications. For example, certifications like ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) and compliance with REACH regulations (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals) ensure the safe use and disposal of chemicals used in the production process. Traceability, knowledge of production areas, and transparency of manufacturing practices are key factors in sourcing bamboo fibre that aligns with current social and environmental standards.
Which textile fibre do you think will be the fibre of the future?
There is no single ideal fiber for the future as the choice of fiber depends on specific characteristics and intended use. Different fibers have different properties that make them suitable for various applications. For example, the requirements for underwear may differ from those for jackets. Therefore, it is important to choose the right fiber for each specific purpose, and there is no one-size-fits-all answer to this question.
However, one potential solution for the future is the recycling of waste materials to replace raw materials derived from fossil fuels and renewable resources. This approach goes beyond simple mechanical recycling and involves the chemical transformation of materials. For instance, there is a growing emergence of new cellulosic artificial fibers produced from waste materials such as orange, cotton, and hemp. This highlights the potential for utilizing industrial by-products and production residues as part of a circular approach to add value and reduce waste.
为了实现这一目标，有一些认证，如 FSC（森林管理委员会）或Canopy，可以保证纤维素来自可持续管理的种植园林。除了原材料和纤维生产的可追溯性，确保所有后续阶段也都是减少负面影响的整体措施的一部分： 例如水和能源消耗、减少化学影响、遵守当前的社会和环境责任。
吉林化纤生产并在 Première Vision 展会上展出的竹纤维通过了认证，可以认为是好产品吗？
在Première Vision展会上展出的、经过认证的竹纤维都是符合这些认证所保证的社会和环境标准的产品。例如ZDHC（有害化学品零排放）认证是一项全球标准，为有害化学品的使用和处置提供了保证。在欧洲，还必须遵守 REACH 法规（化学品注册、评估、许可和限制），以确保所使用化学品的安全性。可追溯性、对生产区域的了解以及生产实践的透明度是采购符合当前社会和环境标准的产品的关键。
不过，未来还有一种可能解决方案是回收废料，以替代从化石资源和可再生资源中提取的原材料。这不仅仅是简单的机械回收，还涉及材料的化学转化。例如，我们正在看到利用桔子、棉花和大麻废料生产的新型纤维素人造纤维的出现…… 我觉得可以通过循环使用 ，开发工业副产品，以回收生产残留物。
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