Who’s Next: An Intercultural Experience

中法时尚跨文化体验

Who’s Next is much more than just an event; it is a vibrant celebration of fashion, a place for exchanges, innovations, and encounters that shapes the landscape of the industry. In September 2024, the show not only celebrates its 30th anniversary but also positions itself as a true springboard for imagining and shaping the future of fashion.

The magazine Airs de Paris has invited Zhang Fengwei, the executive vice president and secretary-general of the Shenzhen Underwear Industry Association, to participate in an intercultural experience within Who’s Next. These moments of exchange open up new perspectives and foster a better understanding of market dynamics.

Who’s Next不仅仅是一个简单的展会；更是时尚的生动庆典，是交流、创新和相遇的场所，开启时尚行业的新格局。2024年9月的展会不仅是为了庆祝30周年；还是为了想象和塑造时尚未来的蓝图。Airs de Paris /巴黎灵感杂志特邀请SIUF中国国际品牌内衣展创始人、深圳市内衣行业协会常务副会长兼秘书长张峰伟做为嘉宾，开启中法时尚的跨文化体验，与法国业界开拓多元交流，从而促进对全球时尚市场动态的更好理解。

Sustainable Fashion: An Essential Topic

For the past five years, IMPACT has been revolutionizing the dynamics of the creative industries by placing sustainability at the core of its concerns. The “IMPACT and NEONYT Paris” space has become a true crossroads where committed stakeholders come together for the future of our planet and industries.

By emphasizing education and awareness, IFA Paris trains future designers to adopt ethical and responsible practices. A meeting with Delphine Durieux, an expert in ethical fashion, highlights the importance of promoting environmentally friendly and socially responsible fashion, especially for young creators who will shape the future of the industry.

可持续时尚是一个不可忽视的话题

在过去五年中，IMPACT展区将可持续性为核心关注点，全面展示创意产业的动态。“IMPACT and NEONYT Paris”空间已成为一个真正的行业交汇点，汇聚了致力于保护地球和未来发展的机构。

IFA Paris作为可持续时尚的积极参与者，通过坚定的倡议和有意义的活动，积极推动这一领域的发展。通过强调环保意识，IFA Paris在培养未来设计师的时候，鼓励他们采用更负责任的时尚实践。与学院教务环保时尚专家德尔菲娜-杜里埃(Delphine Durieux)的交流突显了推广社会责任时尚的重要性，尤其是对那些将塑造行业未来的年轻设计师而言。

Fashion Green Hub, a non-profit association of businesses, acts for a more sustainable, local, circular, innovative, and inclusive fashion. This initiative aims to create jobs in communities while reducing the environmental impact of the industry.

A meeting with Anaïs Chaumont, the corporate relations manager, reveals the partnership potential of the association in China, emphasizing the importance of international collaboration to advance the cause of sustainable fashion.

法国绿色时尚中心是一家非营利性行业协会，自成立以来，一直在采取积极的行动，倡导和实施更加可持续、本地化、循环、创新和包容的时尚解决方案，为当地创造就业机会。与协会企业合作项目负责人阿纳伊斯-肖蒙(Anaïs Chaumont)的会谈揭示了该协会在中国的合作潜力，强调了国际合作在推动可持续时尚事业中的重要性。

Sustainable fashion is not limited to the use of eco-friendly materials; it also encompasses ethical production practices, waste reduction, and the promotion of responsible consumption. Information on GOTS certification is available for those who wish to learn more about obtaining the cotton label.

可持续时尚不仅限于使用环保材料，还包括更环保的生产实践、减少废物和提供负责任的消费信息。有关GOTS认证的信息邦助公众了解如何获得这一国际认证。

The Paris lingerie trade show reinvented

Who’s Next has truly shaken up the norms by bringing together various stakeholders from the sector, including ready-to-wear, lingerie, and accessories, to offer a comprehensive and unique selection to the world. This event has placed fashion at the heart of change, allowing professionals to discover a multitude of brands and trends under one roof. The lingerie sector is undergoing significant evolution, and the International Lingerie Show in Paris has revolutionized its operations to meet the new expectations of consumers.

By adapting to market changes, this show has become an essential hub for lingerie stakeholders, where innovation and creativity take center stage. A selection of creative brands, such as Ovale Paris, reinterprets style codes by offering collections that blend comfort, aesthetics, and modernity. These emerging brands stand out for their ability to innovate while respecting sustainability and ethical values, thus meeting the growing demand for more responsible fashion.

前所未有的巴黎内衣展

Who’s Next 将成衣、内衣和配饰等行业的不同企业聚集在一起，提供世界上独一无二的完整时尚产品系列展示，从而带来了真正的时尚变革。巴黎国际内衣沙龙（Salon International de la Lingerie）顺应消费者不断变化的期望，彻底改变了其运作方式。通过适应市场的变化，巴黎国际内衣沙龙展已成为内衣行业的一个重要革新焦点，创新和创意在这里，占据着中心位置。

一些富有创意的品牌，如 Ovale Paris，重新诠释内衣风格，推出集舒适性、美观性和现代性于一体的内衣系列。这些新兴品牌在尊重可持续发展和时尚道德价值观的同时，还能不断创新，满足了人们对更负责任的时尚的需求，因而脱颖而出。

Renowned brands like Aubade Paris also showcase their exceptional specialized skill, combining tradition and innovation. With refined designs and meticulous attention to detail, Aubade continues to captivate a wide audience while integrating contemporary elements that reflect current trends.

巴黎奥巴德（Aubade Paris）等重要品牌也展示了其非凡的专业技能，将传统与创新完美结合。凭借精致的设计和对细节的关注，Aubade 继续吸引着广泛的受众，同时融入了反映当前趋势的现代元素。

A Cross-Sectional View of the Lingerie Sector

The Who’s Next show transforms into a true laboratory of ideas and creations, where fashion professionals gather to exchange, inspire one another, and anticipate future market developments. Lingerie, in particular, has established itself as an essential component of the fashion sector, incorporating innovations and trends that reflect contemporary aspirations.

In this dynamic, Airs de Paris organized a fascinating meeting between Zhang Fengwei, the executive vice president and secretary-general of the Shenzhen Underwear Industry Association, and Matthieu Pinet, the director of Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris.

内衣行业的中法对话

巴黎国际内衣展正在重新组合，使之成为一个名副其实的创意实验室，业界人士可以在这里交流思想、汲取灵感并预测市场的未来发展。内衣已成为时尚界的重要组成部分，其创新需求和趋势反映了当代人们的愿望。

在这一充满活力的背景下，Airs de Paris /巴黎灵感杂志同时邀请SIUF中国国际品牌内衣展创始人、深圳市内衣行业协会常务副会长兼秘书长张峰伟和巴黎国际内衣泳装和辅料展负责人马修·皮内，进行了一次独出心裁的中法时尚的对话。

How do you view the evolution of the lingerie market?

您如何看待内衣市场的发展？

Zhang Fengwei, Executive Vice President and Secretary-General of the Shenzhen Underwear Industry Association:

The history of lingerie in China and France is very different. For the Chinese, French lingerie brands generally symbolize luxury and elegance. I believe that in the future, we could witness increased cultural cooperation between Chinese lingerie brands and French brands.

The country has a huge population of 1.4 billion and a consumer market worth over 600 billion. It has a clear advantage thanks to its industrial system. This dynamic, combined with French creativity, should become a trend in the future. This could not only enrich the lingerie offering but also create interesting synergies between the two markets.

Regarding the Who’s Next show, I am impressed by its organization. It is particularly bold in terms of cross-border fashion integration. The integration of fashion accessories, clothing, shoes, and hats, along with other major sectors of fashion, could become a key direction for future transformation and development. This form of cross-border integration might well become a trend, and I hold this belief deeply.

张峰伟，深圳内衣行业协会执行副会长兼秘书长：

中法的内衣历史和文化差异显著。法国的内衣品牌在中国人眼中通常代表着奢华与高雅。我认为，未来中国本土内衣品牌与法国品牌之间可能会出现更多的文化合作。例如品牌之间的联名与授权将会是一个重要的发展方向。通过这种方式将欧洲品牌引入中国，可以让中国消费者更好地接受这些品牌。中国拥有14亿人口庞大需求人群和6000多亿的消费市场，并且产业集群优势明显，与法国的创意相结合，应该会成为未来的一种趋势。

至于这次展会，我最大的感受是，在时尚跨界融合方面的重组非常大胆。因此时尚配饰、服装、鞋帽等各大时尚产业的融合，可能会成为未来转型发展的一个方向。所以这种跨界融合，可能会成为一种趋势，这是我深有感触的一点。

Matthieu Pinet, Director of Salon International de la Lingerie :

What’s happening is that the lingerie sector has evolved significantly over the past five to six years. It really started with the #MeToo phenomenon, which has been an important trigger, leading to a change in perception within the industry. Lingerie has shifted towards something more focused on women, their needs, and their feelings. There has been a significant awareness that lingerie needed to rethink its presentation and image. This change was accentuated by the COVID-19 pandemic. While we are talking about lingerie, it’s essential to note that lingerie encompasses much more than that. During the COVID period, we observed a strong dynamic around loungewear, and now activewear has also performed well.

Historically, this sector has been very static and hasn’t evolved much over many years, but it has experienced rapid upheaval recently. In France, we are fortunate to have some of the world’s leading lingerie groups, which strengthens the image of French craftsmanship. Thus, we are witnessing many changes in a short time within the lingerie sector. For me, lingerie is a fashion product like any other. That’s why we are presenting the lingerie show in an integrated manner today.

We have two editions a year, and I think it would be a shame to repeat the same thing every time. The summer edition is an opportunity to try new things and test new concepts. One of the tests we are conducting involves integrating lingerie into all fashion stores. The best way to achieve this is to showcase it within a fashion show like Who’s Next.

马修·皮内，巴黎国际内衣泳装和辅料展负责人：

法国内衣行业在过去五到六年中发生了很大变化。这一切真正始于MeToo社会现象，这是一个重要的触发因素，导致了行业认知的改变。内衣逐渐转向更加关注女性、她们的需求和感受。人们意识到内衣需要重新审视其展示方式和形象。这种变化因新冠疫情而加剧。虽然我们谈论的是内衣，但重要的是要注意，内衣涵盖的范围远不止于此。在疫情期间，我们观察到家居服的强劲动态，现在运动服也表现良好。

这个行业曾经一直停滞，多年来没有太大变化，但最近经历了快速的变革。在法国，我们有幸拥有世界上一些主要的内衣集团，这加强了法式工艺的形象，我们在短时间内看见了内衣行业的许多变化。对我来说，内衣其实是时尚产品之一。因此，我们开始以综合性的方式组织内衣展。我们每年有两次展会，我觉得每次都重复同样的事情是遗憾的。所以夏季展会是尝试新事物和测试新概念的机会。我们进行的一个测试是尝试将内衣融合到所有时尚店铺中。实现这一目标的最佳方式是在像Who’s Next这样的时尚展会上展示。