AIRS DE PARIS

Creativity and Culture

Pierre Cardin, Mode, Myth and Modernity

 

 

皮尔-卡丹: 时尚、神话和现代性

 

“Pierre Cardin, Mode, Myth and Modernity”, a book that pays tribute to the modernity of a visionary designer who revolutionised fashion on a global scale. A look at a great man of French Haute Couture!

Jean-Pascal Hesse and Pierre Pelegry, long-time collaborators of the great couturier, Pierre Cardin, share their intimate knowledge of the couturier’s early career in Paris.

Together, they analyse the influences that inspired this genius as he designed not only some of the most iconic Haute Couture creations of the 1950s and 1960s, but also other collections, including Cosmocorps with its line: the space age, a premonitory exploration of gender fluidity.

In a lively text, Jean-Pascal Hesse draws on a wide range of sources gathered over more than two decades, from Pierre Cardin’s personal memories to numerous unpublished photos and documents relating his early years in the fashion world.

Pierre Cardin was a designer for Christian Dior, a huge success in the United States in the 1950s and 1960s, a deep interest in Japanese art and design, and the mutual fascination of the Japanese with his work.

Pierre Cardin’s many talents were so vast that it is difficult to name them all. Among them: a perfect mastery of materials ranging from fabrics to plastics, extending from Haute Couture to ready-to-wear, from men’s fashion to jewellery, from furniture design to perfumes and accessories… The business acumen of this exceptional man led him to create an extensive commercial empire between China, Europe, and the United States.

Jean-Pascal Hesse, Director of Communications for the Pierre Cardin Group, agreed to give an exclusive interview to Airs de Paris!

 

« 皮尔-卡丹: 时尚、神话和现代性 »这本书向这位有远见,在全球范围内彻底改变现代时尚理念的设计师致敬。让我们一起来探索这位法国高级时装的伟人吧!

Jean-Pascal Hesse和Pierre Pelegry是伟大的服装设计师皮尔-卡丹的长期合作者。在这本书里,他们分享了关于这位服装设计师在巴黎的早期职业生涯的亲密记忆。

他们一起分析了启发这位天才的灵感,因为他不仅设计了20世纪50年代和60年代的一些最具代表性的高级时装作品,而且还设计了其他具有影响力的系列,包括有名的Cosmocorps系列,展示了对太空时代、性别最早期性的探索。

在这个生动的文本中, Jean-Pascal Hesse利用了20多年来收集的各种资料,从皮尔-卡丹的个人回忆到许多未发表的照片, 以及他早年在时尚界的资料档案。

皮尔-卡丹曾是克里斯蒂安-迪奥的设计师,20世纪50年代和60年代在美国取得了巨大的成功,他对日本的艺术和设计有着浓厚的兴趣,同时日本人也对他的作品非常迷恋。

皮尔-卡丹的众多才能如此之多,以至于难以一一列举。其中包括对材料的完美掌握,从面料到塑料,从高级时装到成衣,从男装到珠宝,从家具设计到香水和配饰……这位杰出人物的商业头脑使他在中国、欧洲和美国之间创造了一个庞大的商业帝国。

皮尔-卡丹集团的宣传总监Jean-Pascal Hesse和巴黎灵感杂志的独家采访!

 

 

Pierre Cardin, Mode, Mythe et Modernité -2.- 450x 612

 

The photos in your book are rare and beautiful. How did you choose them?

 

Most of the photos are unpublished. We found them after Pierre Cardin’s death. They showed a different view of Pierre Cardin’s fashion, and accurately expressed the design concept he defined. His fashion started from his beginnings and continued over time.

My main interests in this book was to show his design but also something else, everything that the public did not know or thought they knew. I was lucky enough to find many clichés. Pierre Cardin was such a different character! The Japanese photographer Yoshi Takata worked a lot for him. Pierre Pelegry, director at Maxim’s, inherited these images and some of them are spectacular! Yoshi was a close collaborator of Pierre Cardin. She also took a lot of pictures at the beginning of her career. These black and white shots are superb. I learned and discovered from this artist. It will be a surprise for everyone!

 

In your book, we can feel a deep attachment to Pierre Cardin!

 

It’s true, I’ve always had this sensitivity, I was close to him. I worked alongside him for twenty-seven years. So, my feelings are inevitably bonded with him. I am a trained historian, also an art historian. My destiny is pure chance because I should have been an auctioneer! But… I failed my entrance exam.  The director of public relations at Pierre Cardin was a friend of mine. So, I was introduced to the designer who was looking for someone to work in his press department. That’s how it happened, naturally.

 

In your eyes, was Pierre Cardin a man of “globalisation” before its time?

 

Pierre Cardin had this vision before anyone else! He was at the origin of ready-to-wear clothing. He was one of the first to decide to make a brand out of this name. One of his first trips was to Japan, then very quickly to China. Pierre wanted to bring fashion to the streets, by selling his name, his brand, and his style to as many people as possible. So, globalisation… you might as well say that he thought about it before it happened! Pierre Cardin celebrated his 70th anniversary… It’s quite astonishing all this success, this recognition, this fame for a couturier… What incredible financial independence! This genius imagined licenses to exist abroad before others! Pierre Cardin was the owner of everything. He is such an independant man and always delicated to his work. It is extraordinary!

 

How did Pierre Cardin evolve?

 

In this book you will see that his fashion has evolved, which means that the couturier has been able to adapt to changes, to deep needs.  Of course, the fifties are widely honoured. This great couturier was fascinated by the conquest of space and many of his clothes proved it. He thought that one day man would walk on the moon… The galaxy inspired him… How right he was! However, his visionary fashion was sometimes difficult to wear. He was a designer far ahead of his time! Other designers followed him. Perhaps we could mention Jean-Paul Gautier who worked for him.

 

Will there be an after Pierre Cardin?

 

Of course, there will! The fashion of this great couturier is perpetuated, thanks to a studio full of young designers, talented people that he trained throughout his career. The “Cardin” codes remain alive and well! This year, for the first time, an eco-responsible collection was designed.

Within the Pierre Cardin house, we have the will and the duty to respect his spirit and to readapt it to the tastes and the spirit of the times. His style remains timeless, whether you like it or not. After the death of certain couturiers such as Chanel, Dior and Lagerfeld, their spirit has been perpetuated. Pierre Cardin’s codes  and DNA must be kept. The identity of the brand will remain for eternity.

 

Was Pierre Cardin interested in “eco-responsible” concepts?

 

Pierre Cardin was close to nature. He was one of the first fashion designers to use fur.  Conscientious, he stopped and then made fake fur in the seventies. It’s fair to say that he was once again a precursor!

 

What was his strength ?

 

He knew how to keep confidence in himself. He never doubted his talent. He moved forward, sure of himself. He knew he would succeed. Did he have a revenge to take on life? His childhood was difficult. As a child, he arrived from Italy with penniless parents. This memory was certainly painful for him… like a scar that must be repaired. He knew how to bounce back with finesse and intelligence…

His strength was to look higher, relentlessly. Pierre Cardin also had this thirst for freedom. He wanted everything to be possible. How much he would suffer today because today it is all much more complicated.

Pierre Cardin will remain a legendary couturier. Talent and taste are not enough, only style counts.

“My entry among the Immortals was a very important moment because there had never been an academician couturier.” This is the conclusion of a quote from a great man who was received under the Dome!

 

Pierre Cardin, Mode, Mythe et Modernité -5 - 850 x 600

 

这本书中的照片是如此罕见而美丽,您是如何选择的?

 

大部分的照片都是以前未发表的,我们也是在皮尔-卡丹逝世后才找到的。它们展示了皮尔-卡丹时尚创意的非常不同的面貌,准确地表达了他所确认的时尚意义。他的时尚风格从他的起点开始,并随着时间的推移而继续演变。

我的兴趣是来展示他的设计款式,包括一些公众从来都不知道款式,或者一些大家都知道的经典。我很幸运地找到了这些珍贵的照片,皮尔-卡丹是一个如此不同的设计师。

在20世纪50年代,他早年的生活是很丰富的。日本摄影师Yoshi Takata和他有很多合作。马克西姆公司的总经理皮埃尔-佩莱格里(Pierre Pelegry)从她那里继承了一些她的照片,其中一些照片真的是非凡无比!

Yoshi是皮尔-卡丹的亲密合作者。在她的职业生涯开始时,她就拍了很多皮尔-卡丹照片。这些黑白照片是无以伦比的,我从这位艺术家发现了意想不到的惊喜。

 

在您的书中,我们可以感受到您对皮尔-卡丹的深深感情!

 

这是真的,我一直都对他有这种情感的敏感,我和他一直很亲近。我在他身边工作了二十七年,这不可避免地产生了深深的情感联系。

我的专业其实是历史和艺术史,我本应成为一名拍卖师!命运常常有偶然的转变,因为我的资格考试没有通过,皮尔-卡丹公司的公共关系经理是我的一个朋友。而他正在给新闻部找人,因此我被介绍给皮尔-卡丹,这就是事情的经过,自然而然。
在您的眼里,皮尔-卡丹是一个«全球化»的前卫者吗?

皮尔-卡丹比其他任何人都更早地有了这样的设想! 他是成衣理念的创始人,他是最早决定将自己的名字经营成品牌的人之一。他最早的一次旅行是去日本,然后很快就去了中国。皮尔-卡希望通过向尽可能多的人推销他的名字专利、他的品牌和他的风格,将时尚带到所有城市街头。这也就是全球化……

 

您不妨说,在全球化发生之前,他就已经想到了!

 

皮尔-卡丹庆祝他的70周年纪念日的时候,对于一个服装设计师来说,所有这些成功、这些认可、这些名声是相当令人吃惊的,令人难以置信啊!这位天才想象出的品牌经营许可证,比其他人都更早!他是一个非常聪明的人,皮尔-卡丹是他的一切的主人,独立而富有行动……这是很罕见的!

 

皮尔-卡丹是如何发展起来的?

 

在这本书中,你会看到他的时尚发生了很多的变化,这意味着这位服装设计师能够适应社会的变化和深层次的需求。五十年代是非同寻常的,这位伟大的服装设计师对征服太空非常着迷,他的许多衣服都证明了这一点。他真的认为有一天人类会在月球上行走……银河系给了他很多灵感……他是多么正确啊!

然而,富有远见的时尚有时过于前卫,很难穿上身。他是一个远远领先于他的时代的设计师! 很多其他设计师也都在跟随他。也许我们可以提到曾为他工作的让-保罗-戈蒂埃。

 

在皮尔-卡丹之后还会有未来吗?

 

当然会有的! 这位伟大的服装设计师的时尚必须得以延续,我们可以依赖于一个充满年轻设计师的工作室,他们是他整个职业生涯中培养出来的人才。皮尔-卡丹的基因可以保存得很好! 今年是首次推出一个对生态负责的系列。这是有现实意义的事情了!

在皮尔-卡丹公司内部,我们有意愿也有责任尊重其精神,并根据时代的品味和精神重新调整。他的风格仍然是永恒的,无论你喜欢与否。在某些服装设计师去世后,如香奈儿、迪奥和拉格菲尔德,他们的精神一直在延续。皮尔-卡丹的风格就是他的基础,品牌的基因将永远保持下去。

 

皮尔-卡丹对 «生态责任时尚»的概念感兴趣吗?

 

皮尔-卡丹热爱自然。他曾是最早使用毛皮的时装设计师之一。 但他后来不再使用,然后在七十年代开始使用假毛皮。可以说,他又一次成为可持续时尚的前驱!

 

他的前进力量是什么?

 

他知道如何对自己保持信心。他从未怀疑过自己的天赋。他向前走,对自己很有信心。他知道自己会成功。他的童年很艰难。小时候,他和身无分文的父母从意大利来到这里。这段记忆对他来说无疑是痛苦的……就像一个必须修复的伤疤。他知道如何用技巧和智慧反弹……他的力量是看得更高,而且不带任何的情绪地看。皮尔-卡丹也有这种对自由的渴求。他希望一切都能成为可能。他在那个时代是很幸运的,如果在今天也许会不可能,因为今天一切都更加复杂了。

皮尔-卡丹永远是一位传奇的服装设计师。光有天赋和品味是不够的,只有风格才能永恒。

«我进入不朽者行列是一个非常重要的时刻,因为从来没有一个法国院士级的服装设计师»。这是他在院士颁发典礼被接见时的一句结论!

 

 

Airs de Paris in Kiosk

∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼∼

 

Numbers 07 2023

 

Airs de Paris Juillet 2023

 

In France

https://www.journaux.fr/airs-de-paris_mode-beaute_feminin_280044.html

 

Numbers 05 2023

 

AIRS DE PARIS 2023 hor serie 13 05

 

https://www.journaux.fr/airs-de-paris-hors-serie_mode-beaute_feminin_283439.html

 

Subscription

 

Seminaire du Fujian a Paris 7

 

In the World

https://www.uni-presse.fr/abonnement/abonnement-magazine-airs-de-paris/

 

 

AIRS DE PARIS

Contact : airsdeparis7@gmail.com

Média reconnu par la Commission Paritaire de Publication et Agence de Presse

Copyright 2022 - Airs de Paris - Tous droits réservés