LECLAIREUR是一个目的地
« Destination rue Hérold! L’Eclaireur is an exceptional place extraordinary. As its name suggests, «LECLAIREUR» is a personalised brand that looks forward to tomorrow.
With LECLAIREUR, it is a question of imagining the future and daring… By shattering the boundaries between fashion, design and the plastic arts, the founders of the brand, Martine, and Armand Hadida, have been imposing their personal vision for over forty years.
The adventure began in 1980, when LECLAIREUR opened for the first time in Paris in an art gallery on the streets of Champs-Élysées. By offering a selection of contemporary designers, LECLAIREUR stood out from what was available on the market at the time.
Paris, Los Angeles… Today, with its multiple locations, LECLAIREUR imagines privileged experiential spaces (the art of setting up) to propose creation at the heart of the scene. Thus, each visit is special, unforgettable…
目的地赫罗尔德街! 正如其名所示，LECLAIREUR是一个远离平凡、非同寻常、展望未来的独特地方。
对LECLAIREUR来说，问题的关键在于要大胆和勇于想象未来……通过打破时尚、设计和造型艺术之间的界限，LECLAIREUR的创始人Martine和Armand Hadida四十多年来一直持续不断地展现他们非常的视野和理念。
这场冒险始于1980年，当时LECLAIREUR首次在巴黎香榭丽舍大街的一个艺术画廊里推出世界上第一家概念店。通过提供精选的当代设计师，LECLAIREUR慨念店在时尚业脱颖而出。
巴黎、洛杉矶……今天LECLAIREUR的拥有多家概念店，并想象出个性化购物体验空间，因此每次购物都是特别的，令人难忘的……
独家采访巴黎概念店教父
Airs de Paris wanted to know more…
Interview with
Armand Hadida
What was your original idea behind opening such a concept store?
Apart from the diversity and beauty of the brands, I like the idea of not being like everyone else! The «difference» is this way of living and thinking with a different spirit. It is our culture, our DNA. It is important, even more so today when many things are similar, not to play the sheep of Panurge!
To exist in a community is normal, but it does not mean necessarily doing what others do. We have always liked to exist on a personal basis, to stand out and this is what makes us original. This concept resembles us, it is our image.
It’s true that «daring to be different» always represents a risk. How to associate, bring together, mix with another, the smallest detail of a creator, whether he is a designer, a master glassmaker, or a master goldsmith? It’s not easy to mix artistic genres while putting each one at the highest level! But this is how we want it, and this is what every visitor likes and asks for.
The time was right when LECLAIREUR started?
Paradoxically, this concept was triggered by itself! It is there and it imposes itself. At that moment, it seems logical…
I have to do this!
We had to think and then change the form and the materials. We felt it was necessary to tell another story, our own. When a story is told too many times, it no longer interests anyone.
Do you think fashion has changed?
Life forces us to question ourselves every second. We are in a new world. It is essential to live like this. Of course, everything changes and evolves. But what is interesting to observe is that the acceleration of evolution is there. Evolution has always existed. It always takes a certain amount of time for things to be understood, to settle, to take root and to become established.
Today the codes have evolved. We have power and advanced tools and technology. There are mobile phones and artificial intelligence… Who could have imagined this ten years ago? The consumer’s curiosity was evolving at the same time and at the same speed.
We have known COVID. Today, new behaviours and new rules are being imposed. We must accept them, apply them. They are part of our common life.
Has COVID changed the way we think, create, and behave?
Yes, certainly. Sometimes there are dates that remain engraved on the calendar. What an awareness! Don’t you think that the world was galloping in the direction of superficial culture, pushing aside true values?
Today we are returning, it seems to me, to the basics! To understand these important changes, we must live them. The appointment that the planet had with the virus was an imposed reality. Everything came to a halt. Man has obsessions, desires, and dreams. Even if you stop him, he starts again. Awareness was important, it imposed its changes in other ways.
It is possible that more and more people are now turning away from fashion. It’s true that we always live in times of plenty. We have a lot, our cupboards are full! It is time to take the time to refocus, to think about our own existence, our relationship with nature, to be aware of values, to do what we want to do without being obsessed with the race, especially the financial race. Let’s not get away from reality. There is a pattern of awareness here, let’s hope there will be more…
Will LECLAIREUR become an ephemeral boutique?
This boutique is unlike any other (especially on the main tourist avenues with their spectacular, flashy facades). We have withdrawn from this outdated vision and preferred to locate ourselves in streets where few passers-by go, that is our choice!
Our address has existed for twenty-three years. The place doesn’t get old, it lasts forever. We have never had any sales or promotions; our customers’ investments are carefully preserved. You are right that the shops are in danger of disappearing. This is the end of «the shops». The system is outdated. Even if the owners want to keep their shops. Customers will soon have more demands. The shop as we know it, with a shopfront, no longer has a future.
In my eyes, a shop is a prison with racks and clothes. When the customer pushes open the door, he is surrounded by clothes from everywhere. He is trapped in the «mold». This does not correspond to a feeling of well-being. It is not something that makes you want to walk around. There are few salespeople who know how to address the customer. There is no generosity, no interest, no culture. The system is flawed. For these many reasons, the curtain on the shops is closing.
How can we reach out to the customer with the attention they deserve?
We have always wanted Rue Hérold to be a unique destination!
We have always communicated by word of mouth. It’s a place where people meet and share. There are great houses that come here to have their dinners. Our address is an epicenter of convivial meetings.
We offer fashion and design from abroad. The offer is an invitation to dreams and discovery. We must think about surprising, astonishing, even to the point of disturbing the customer, while maintaining, it goes without saying, «good manners».
Why the name: LECLAIREUR?
As I have just said, we wanted to get out of the «groups». We point out a path: the path of the other. This is the true translation of «éclaireur» as opposed to «follower». It is the one who indicates the path to be followed, the path that must be taken, as opposed to the motorway with its traffic jams. We pass through the secondary roads where poetry remains. Look: there are trees, flowers, and houses.
We were the first to present important brands that have become great houses. Prada, Dolce Gabbana, Vivienne Westwood, or John Galliano…
Precursors? We are indeed: LECLAIREUR
您开设这样一家概念店的最初想法是什么？
除了欣赏品牌的多样性之外，我还喜欢与他人不同的的想法！差异是指这种具有不同精神的生活和思考方式。这是我们的文化，我们的DNA基因，与众不同，不要扮演帕努尔格的绵羊！这一点尤为重要！
存在于一个社群很正常，但这并不意味着一定要做别人己经做过的事。我们一直喜欢在个性化基础上存在，脱颖而出，这就是我们的独特之处。这个理念与我们相似，这就是我们的形象。
诚然敢于与众不同总是代表一种风险。如何将每一个创作者的最小细节展示出来，与另一个创作者的作品相融合，无论他是设计师，玻璃制造大师或金匠？把每个人的创作能完美地混合在一起并不容易! 但这是我们的努力，这也是每个客人喜欢和要求的。
LECLAIREUR创始时，您的想法是不是已经成熟？
矛盾的是，这个想法的出现是自然而然！它就在那里，强加给我们。在那一刻，仿佛就是合乎逻辑的……
我必须这样做 ! 不得不打破常规，我们必须思考，然后改变运营的形式，我们觉得有必要讲述属于我们自己的故事。因为同样一个故事被讲了太多次，它就不再引起任何人的兴趣。
在您看来，时尚是不是已经变化了？
生活常常迫使我们每秒钟都在质疑自己。今天我们在一个新的世界里，这样的变化是必不可少的。 其实变化一直都存在着，但很多事情是需要一定的时间来理解，来沉淀，来扎根，来确认。 一切都在演变。但值得观察的是，变化正在加速!
今天很多都已经变化了，人类有强大而快速的工具，有移动电话和人工智能……十年前谁能想象到这些？ 消费者的好奇心也在同时以同样的速度平行发展着。
您的能量是令人难以置信的!
我们一直对时尚和设计相当感兴趣。我们已经以一种非常积极的方式展示了很长时间。我们喜欢设计，复古文化和其他一直伴随着我们的事物。
我们喜欢古董，我们对50年代和70年代的作品感兴趣。在那个时候，意大利的设计是非常慷慨的，非常有趣的。当我们组织一个活动时，更多的时候是以设计为主题，而不是时尚。因为时尚已经根植于我们的文化中。
COVID疫情改变了我们的思维、创造和行为方式吗？
当然，有些时候期会铭记在历史中。多么强烈的意识改变啊! 你不认为世界曾经朝着肤浅文化的方向飞奔，把真正的价值观推到一边吗？
今天在我看来，我们正在回归最基本的源头! 为了理解这些重要的变化，我们必须生活在这些变化中。地球与病毒的相遇，一切都戛然而止。人常常有痴迷、欲望和梦想，即使你阻止他，他也会重新开始。所以意识到这点是很重要的，尽管以疫情的方式强加的。
现在越来越多的人正在远离时尚，诚然，我们生活在富足的时代，我们拥有很多东西，我们的橱柜常常是满的！
现在是时候花时间重新回归，思考我们自己的存在，我们与自然的关系，意识到真正价值，做我们想做的事，而不再迷恋于竞争。不要远离真正存在，越来越多的人意识到这点，让我们希望会有更多的转变…
LECLAIREUR会不会昙花一现？
这个概念店店与其他任何一家在主要的旅游大道上，有着壮观浮华的门面的店都不同。我们已经退出了这种过时的理念，宁愿把自己定位在人烟稀少的街道上，这是我们的选择！我们的店在这里已经存在了二十三年！
这个地方不会变老，它会永远存在。我们从未有过任何促销活动，你说的对，商店是有消失的危险，其实现在已经是商店的末日，这个模式已经过时了。即使业主想保留他们的商店，顾客很快就会有更多的要求。传统式的商店，不再会有未来。
在我眼里，商店是一个有架子和衣服的监狱。当顾客推开门时，他被来自各处的衣服所包围。他被困在这个模具里。 这不是幸福的感觉，这不会给你想四处走动的愿望。而且很少有销售人员知道如何称呼客户，常常没有从容的态度，没有文化，这个商业模式是有缺陷的。由于这许多原因，很多商店的帷幕正在缓缓落下。
如何给予顾客应有的关注？我们一直希望赫罗尔成为一个独特的目的地！我们一直通过口碑宣传，因为这是一个人们相遇和分享的地方。
我们提供超越国界的时尚和设计，是对梦想和发现的邀请。我们必须考虑让顾客感到惊讶、甚至稍微打扰顾客，当然不言而喻，保持 «良好的礼仪»。
为什么叫LECLAIREUR？
正如我刚才所说，我们想走出普通的«群体»。我们渴望指出一条新的道路。
这才是 LECLAIREUR真正的翻译。指出要走的路，必须走的路，而不是堵车的高速公路，我们会选择经过次要的道路，但那里仍然有诗意，那里有树，有花，有房子。
我们推出了很多品牌，这些品牌现在已经成为有名的大品牌。例如，普拉达、杜嘉班纳、薇薇安-韦斯特伍德或约翰-加利亚诺……。
我们的确是前驱者 LECLAIREUR!
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